Using Watco stain didn't work as well as I hoped. I got a decent stain color on the wood, but the birch plywood doesn't have a strong enough grain to stain well. (It also didn't hurt that the weather's cooling down, so I had to put an extra coat on, and still didn't get a semi-gloss finish. I suspect I might have gotten a better finish with warmer weather or if I hadn't been so eager to finish. The panels are also cut with the grain going sideways; I suspect vertical grain might look better. All said, maybe just spray-painting with a bright enamel would have been better.My other big problem was with the software. My Mac laptop (MacBook Pro running Mac OS X 10.6) just kept having problems running ReplicatorG. At first, I was getting error like:
java.lang.ClassCastException: gnu.io.RXTXCommDriver cannot be cast to
gnu.io.CommDriver thrown while loading gnu.io.RXTXCommDriver
I'm not surprised that I'm having problems with serial devices; I've run other serial devices (such as programming model railroad locomotive decoder's with the JMRI project's DecoderPro software, and a Cricut scrapbooking cutter via Sure Cuts a Lot. I suspect I have warring Java serial drivers on that machine. Building my own copy of librxtx from sources by following these instructions and copying the resulting .jar and .jnilib file into /Library/Java/
Extensions manually as mentioned in librxtx's README. Unfortunately, then I just got errors that every serial device was in use. Switching to my desktop machine with Mac OS X 10.5 and fewer serial devices made everything run fine.
(Interesting trivia: my laptop had the RXTX code loaded in three places: /usr/lib/java, /Library/Java/Extensions, and somewhere deep in /System/Library/Frameworks. The Mac Mini running 10.5 that ran ReplicatorG with no problems didn't have RXTX installed anywhere. The RXTX code usually comes as two files: RXTXcomm.jar (the Java code for running serial ports) and librxtxSerial.jnilib (the Mac OS X native code that actually talks with the serial device.)
Final helpful hint for other Makernauts: I'd bought the basic kit, and assumed I could buy a power supply at Fry's for cheaper than Makerbot was charging. It turns out that was a silly choice; Fry's has tons of power supplies, but all were in sealed boxes so I couldn't see the wires they provided and where the fan was. I ended up buying a 400W power supply for $28.99 that had all the power connectors I needed, but it has a fan on top that keeps it from being inserted in the Makerbot case. None of the cheaper power supplies had the 20 pin connector (as far as I could tell.) Moral: buy the Makerbot power supply.
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